Saturday, April 20, 2013

Inca Trail / Camino Inka Day 4: Arriving at Machu Picchu

The wake up call came at 3:30 AM. As on other days we were greeted with a cup of hot coca tea and a washcloth and warm water to do a quick freshening-up. We hurried to pack and eat, and our group walked to the queue just below our camp to wait until they opened the rest of the trail at 5:30 AM. We brushed our teeth while in line, using what was left of our boiled & cheesecloth-strained water that tasted like metal. We had a nice conversation with George and Carol for an hour before they opened the trail, and we were on our way!

I was determined to keep up with the group and went faster than any other day on the trail despite my ankle. 

It didn't work. I thought this last day was going to be easier and shorter, but it felt like forever. The goal was to get to the Sun Gate by sunrise. That didn't happen either, but, we did eventually get there, and Machu Picchu was beautiful.

I remember first coming over that hill and everyone else in the group was already there, but it was like they all faded away and there I was, just me, looking out at Machu Picchu.





It was still almost an hour-long trek from the Sun Gate to the site, and along the way we passed regular tourists who had came by train & bus walking the opposite direction from us to the Sun Gate. I felt superior. I had walked 26+ miles for this, hadn't showered in 4 days -- I EARNED THIS.

One of the ladies that passed us told us the Boston Marathon bombers had been caught, one killed. The Boston Marathon had been bombed the day before we left for the trail. We had been away from all electricity & communications while we were out there on the trail.

We made our way down to Machu Picchu and had to exit so we could officially enter the ruins. There was a snack bar area that was very commercialized, with pop music blaring. I couldn't help but wonder what the Inkas would think of all this. 

After resting there about a half hour and having a refreshing, clean bottle of water, we went to officially enter. There was a line, and once we were in, Flavio led us around and did a short tour. The end of our time together as a group was getting close and I think everyone felt it. It's crazy how four days in the middle of nowhere, doing the most physically difficult work you've ever done, can bond you all in a way you've never experienced before and maybe never will again.


The last part of the tour took place at this area where we sat on large stones in a circle. The sun was perfect, temperature perfect, and it even seemed a little quieter there. 

After that, the group split up. Some went to climb Hyuana Picchu (not us, haha) and others went different directions to explore the ruins on their own. Adam and I headed to the residential areas. Secretly I was hoping for a spiritual revelation of some kind, but nothing came.

Originally, I had wanted to spend one or two whole days at Machu Picchu, but we were so tired from the trek (plus, my ankle was DONE with all the stairs) so we took the bus down to Aguas Calientes at 12:30 to find the place where our group was going to meet for lunch, Apu Salkantay. The bus went around 13 switchbacks down the mountain and took just under 30 minutes. At the bottom, we saw a hotel that looked really nice, and I made myself remember the name for later (Sumaq). We had no reservations for the rest of our time in Peru.😲

We were the first ones at lunch (oh the irony, having been the last ones into camp every day). We had run into some French Canadians who we asked for directions, otherwise we may have never found it. Adam ordered a huge beer. I had a chicken sandwich with lettuce (risky I know, but the place looked nice). Adam had some kind of vegetarian sandwich. Others started arriving, and this truly marked the end. We were all dirty and tired, except for the guides who seemed to have found a place to shower after the tour.

We enjoyed lunch and had lots of conversation, and then most of them had to hurry to the train station. Kelly, Brian, me and Adam were the only ones that opted for a night in Aguas Calientes. By then, I had booked a night at the Sumaq for $328 USD using my phone and the restaurant wifi. It's a 5 star hotel, includes a gourmet dinner and breakfast, and after this journey it's just money.

I was in a lot of pain, in my legs obviously, but also my arms from relying so much on the walking sticks since twisting my ankle. The remaining four of us chatted and took our time, and then said goodbye.

Adam and I headed for the Sumaq with excitement. They greeted us warmly with fruit juice and quickly checked us in. Our room was beautiful, with a balcony with a view of the Urubamba River. It was a great place to relax. It even had a bathtub. Such a start contrast to our accommodations the previous 3 nights on the trail. I showered twice, and we went to the bar where they were offering free pisco sours. I tried it but didn't think I needed alcohol while my body was trying to recover, so Adam gladly had his and mine. We made dinner reservations for 7:00, so we relaxed in the bar area until then. 

Dinner was elegantly served in three or four courses. I tried to order things that I recognized, but when my appetizer came I had no idea what it was. I picked at it and stopped. I really needed some nourishment since I hardly ate on the trail. I would later learn that I lost 15 pounds over the course of our 15 days in Peru. My main course turned out to be delicious and I ate as much as I could. It was spaghetti noodles with vegetables and an oil-basil sauce. Dessert was even better. It was seriously the best chocolate ice cream I've ever had in my LIFE.



After that we stayed up for a while relaxing and reflecting on all that we had done. I still can't believe it made it all the way to the end of the trail.

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