Inca Trail / Camino Inka Day 4: Arriving at Machu Picchu

The wake up call came at 3:30 AM. As on other days we were greeted with a cup of hot coca tea and a washcloth and warm water to do a quick freshening-up. We hurried to pack and eat, and our group walked to the queue just below our camp to wait until they opened the rest of the trail at 5:30 AM. We brushed our teeth while in line, using what was left of our boiled & cheesecloth-strained water that tasted like metal. We had a nice conversation with George and Carol for an hour before they opened the trail, and we were on our way!

I was determined to keep up with the group and went faster than any other day on the trail despite my ankle. 

It didn't work. I thought this last day was going to be easier and shorter, but it felt like forever. The goal was to get to the Sun Gate by sunrise. That didn't happen either, but, we did eventually get there, and Machu Picchu was beautiful.

I remember first coming over that hill and everyone else in the group was already there, but it was like they all faded away and there I was, just me, looking out at Machu Picchu.

It was still almost an hour-long trek from the Sun Gate to the site, and along the way we passed regular tourists who had came by train & bus walking the opposite direction from us to the Sun Gate. I felt superior. I had walked 26+ miles for this, hadn't showered in 4 days -- I EARNED THIS.

One of the ladies that passed us told us the Boston Marathon bombers had been caught, one killed. The Boston Marathon had been bombed the day before we left for the trail. We had been away from all electricity & communications while we were out there on the trail.

We made our way down to Machu Picchu and had to exit so we could officially enter the ruins. There was a snack bar area that was very commercialized, with pop music blaring. I couldn't help but wonder what the Inkas would think of all this. 

After resting there about a half hour and having a refreshing, clean bottle of water, we went to officially enter. There was a line, and once we were in, Flavio led us around and did a short tour. The end of our time together as a group was getting close and I think everyone felt it. It's crazy how four days in the middle of nowhere, doing the most physically difficult work you've ever done, can bond you all in a way you've never experienced before and maybe never will again.

The last part of the tour took place at this area where we sat on large stones in a circle. The sun was perfect, temperature perfect, and it even seemed a little quieter there. 

After that, the group split up. Some went to climb Hyuana Picchu (not us, haha) and others went different directions to explore the ruins on their own. Adam and I headed to the residential areas. Secretly I was hoping for a spiritual revelation of some kind, but nothing came.

Originally, I had wanted to spend one or two whole days at Machu Picchu, but we were so tired from the trek (plus, my ankle was DONE with all the stairs) so we took the bus down to Aguas Calientes at 12:30 to find the place where our group was going to meet for lunch, Apu Salkantay. The bus went around 13 switchbacks down the mountain and took just under 30 minutes. At the bottom, we saw a hotel that looked really nice, and I made myself remember the name for later (Sumaq). We had no reservations for the rest of our time in Peru.😲

We were the first ones at lunch (oh the irony, having been the last ones into camp every day). We had run into some French Canadians who we asked for directions, otherwise we may have never found it. Adam ordered a huge beer. I had a chicken sandwich with lettuce (risky I know, but the place looked nice). Adam had some kind of vegetarian sandwich. Others started arriving, and this truly marked the end. We were all dirty and tired, except for the guides who seemed to have found a place to shower after the tour.

We enjoyed lunch and had lots of conversation, and then most of them had to hurry to the train station. Kelly, Brian, me and Adam were the only ones that opted for a night in Aguas Calientes. By then, I had booked a night at the Sumaq for $328 USD using my phone and the restaurant wifi. It's a 5 star hotel, includes a gourmet dinner and breakfast, and after this journey it's just money.

I was in a lot of pain, in my legs obviously, but also my arms from relying so much on the walking sticks since twisting my ankle. The remaining four of us chatted and took our time, and then said goodbye.

Adam and I headed for the Sumaq with excitement. They greeted us warmly with fruit juice and quickly checked us in. Our room was beautiful, with a balcony with a view of the Urubamba River. It was a great place to relax. It even had a bathtub. Such a start contrast to our accommodations the previous 3 nights on the trail. I showered twice, and we went to the bar where they were offering free pisco sours. I tried it but didn't think I needed alcohol while my body was trying to recover, so Adam gladly had his and mine. We made dinner reservations for 7:00, so we relaxed in the bar area until then. 

Dinner was elegantly served in three or four courses. I tried to order things that I recognized, but when my appetizer came I had no idea what it was. I picked at it and stopped. I really needed some nourishment since I hardly ate on the trail. I would later learn that I lost 15 pounds over the course of our 15 days in Peru. My main course turned out to be delicious and I ate as much as I could. It was spaghetti noodles with vegetables and an oil-basil sauce. Dessert was even better. It was seriously the best chocolate ice cream I've ever had in my LIFE.

After that we stayed up for a while relaxing and reflecting on all that we had done. I still can't believe it made it all the way to the end of the trail.

The Inka Trail - Camino Inka

We woke up to our alarm at 3:00 AM and threw ourselves and all our belongings together and headed to the front desk to check out. Check out was slow, and my panic kicked in once again. We ran to the Recocijo Square where the Llama Path bus was waiting, and were the last ones to board.

This was the first of many times that we would be late or last over the next four days.

We stopped in Ollantaytambo and ate breakfast at the place that we ate at every day during our time there, Huatacuy. I was able to grab the Wifi signal from Hostal Iskay for one last check in with the world before our journey! (I also took the opportunity to do a foursquare check-in to the Inka Trail, assuring my friends we were really doing this.)

I had a positive attitude and felt excited as we traveled down dirt roads parallel to the railroad and river, and finally arrived at KM 82.

Soon we were on our way, over the Urubamba and then up, up, down down, up, up, and up! This is what they call "Inka flat."

Day 1 was hard. Much harder than I expected. I pressed forward as well as I could, but by mid-day I was having trouble keeping up and had fallen to the back of the group. The rain began about that time, and with temps dropping and my raincoat failing, I was feeling pretty miserable by the time I arrived at camp. I had a moment when I got in the tent which involved lots of shivering, and some crying, along with regret. I had overestimated my strength and abilities. The Inka Trail was winning.

That night it was really cold, so I was thankful for the excellent cocoon-style sleeping bags that were provided. Even so, I arose the next morning after alternating between shivering, tossing, and dozing in 10 minute increments.

Day 2 was very hard. This is the day we ascended and descended the two highest passes on the trail: Dead Woman's Pass (Warmi Wanusca) and Runkuraqay Pass, at almost 14,000 ft and 13,000 ft, respectively.

At the highest point on the trail, 13,772 feet above sea level.

It's harder work going up the stairs, but more painful going down. So when I was going up, I looked forward to going down, and vice versa. Every time I would think I had gotten to the top of a section of stairs, the trail would go around a corner and there would be more stairs. Climbing rocky stairs with such a lack of oxygen takes more mental acuity than I could have prepared for. It was a constant battle inside myself to continue to put one foot in front of the other. I quit many times. But we were long past the point at which going back is shorter than pressing on, and so, I continued on. I made it into camp dead last, and too tired and nauseous from altitude sickness to go to dinner.

Day 3 (today) was my best day on the trail. I still was unable to eat breakfast, and I think my fellow trekkers were worried. They encouraged me to eat something, even a bite, but I just couldn't. Thankfully by lunch time, my appetite had started to return.

I've been so embarrassed because I am always the last one into camp, sometimes by hours. I never imagined it would be this difficult. I mean, I feel better now that we're at a lower altitude and since I've been able to eat. My legs hurt so bad. I've been using two walking sticks practically like crutches.

The third day on the trail is beautiful, though. Here are some photos. (In case you were wondering, Adam is doing fine.)

We had a closing ceremony tonight where we all got introduced to each porter and heard their age, and then introduced ourselves as well. Our group consists of Carol and George (a mother & son from Massachusetts), Kelly (from the UK), Callum (from Scotland), Brian (from Melbourne, Australia), Dan & Emily (from New York), Peter and Erin (from Australia), and me & Adam (from Madison, Wisconsin). Our guides are Flavio and Fabriccio, and our chef is Sebastian.

I was finally able to eat my first real dinner since being on the trail. We discussed a way to share photos with each other, and gave all our email addresses to George to set that up. What a great idea! Anyway, I am finally coming back to life and being sociable, and I'm glad the group got to see some of my real personality shining through.

As we were all getting ready to say goodnight, some of us were waiting to use the bathrooms (to protect the privacy of those on the involved I'll be leaving out names). These bathrooms were the worst we'd see in all of Peru. I actually changed and quarantined my pants when I got back to the tent because I was not willing to risk whatever I may have dragged in with them, getting into my things...

Anyway, I was squatting over the hole in the ground to pee. There was no trash can so everyone had thrown their used tp/wipes in a corner in a pile. The smell, was really bad. You could hear EVERYTHING. I finished up, and Adam and I were about to walk back down to camp when a young man from our group came out of the other bathroom, head hanging low, saying in his strong Scottish accent, "I feel like the worst person in the world right now." A young woman (who had been sharing a tent with him since night one due to her partner needing medical care just before beginning the trek) said, "I thought you quit that!" And me and Adam were like, "what??" The young man then said "I've been taking Imodium so I don't have to take a shite out here." And we burst into laughter! In fact, we got back to our tent and continued to laugh while we knew we should be trying to be quiet and go to sleep because we have to get up at 3:30 am to make the final 7k to Machu Picchu in the morning. 

When you're in a group and you go through something as life-changing as the Inka Trail experience together, you bond in ways that outsiders won't understand. You open up about things you wouldn't normally tell strangers. When almost all access to privacy is removed, you adjust and accept reality in a different way. For a short time (4 days in our case), you're family.

So by the end of day 3, things were much better and even though I was in terrible pain from the thousands of stairs and the sprained ankle (did I mention that?), it was a great day.